October 26, 2010

Woodworker's Journal 260 Q&A's


Q & A



Best Option for Hanging Dresser Drawers?

I've been a subscriber for over two years now and have been very pleased with your magazine. I plan on building a Craftsman style dresser using all solid wood and traditional joinery. I also plan on hand cutting the dovetail drawers. Needless to say, this project will take quite a while for me, and I want it to be as functional as it is beautiful. I like the smoothness of ball bearing slides, but I don't want see metal slides when I open a drawer.

My question is: How did they make drawers slide smoothly back then? How can I do it now while maintaining the traditional look?- Shane


Tim Inman: Shane, the way they made those
drawers slide easily was by quality construction, and
fitting them properly! When I was learning how to
build drawers, my instructor's standard was the
“one-finger push” rule. It worked like this: When I
was ready to be graded, he pulled the drawer out to
one-third of its length. Then, using only one finger,
he pushed the drawer back into place until it rested
correctly against its stops -- all the way around the
opening. The trick was that his finger pushed at all
four corners of the drawer, in turn, pushing the
drawer back into place. First, he'd push on the top
right corner. If that worked, he'd try again and push
on the bottom right corner; then top left, bottom
left, and I'd get a grade. Any resistance or binding,
and I got a ' ”do-over” and a scowl!

If the drawer fits too tightly, it will bind. If the
drawer has too much play, it will also cock off to
one side, and bind. I discovered that a piece of
cardboard from the back of a yellow legal pad gave
me about the right clearance. So, that cardboard
'”feeler gauge ” became my best friend as I constructed drawers. When I had that much space between the drawer and the sides of the cabinet guides, and when the drawer was properly waxed with a candle or beeswax, it worked every time.

How can you do it? My recommendations: Plan A: Do it just like the old masters did. Build the cabinet well, and fit the drawer properly. Plan B: there are metal ball bearing guides that fit underneath the drawer invisibly. Plan C: There are a number of polymer glides and tracking materials available that will improve the drawer operation. See Option A.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim. There's a lot of original Stickley furniture with drawers still being put to good use. Think of how proud you'll be to build a set of drawers with traditional supports and have them work as well as Tim points out. I would give it a "go" to build your dresser as traditionally as you can. But, if practicality is the primary motivator—and that's sometimes the wisest choice—I'd try undermount drawer slide hardware.

What Are Double Profile Doors?

What, my friends, is a double profile door? Does that mean it is just as fancy inside as it is
outside? - Jerry Fischer

Tim Inman: I'm not sure, either. I suspect it is a term of art in the kitchen cabinet marketing world to mean both the top and bottom rails of the door are shaped, or “profiled.”
Chris Marshall: You've got me there, too. Can any other eZine readers help out with this terminology?

Turning Toy Wheels?

I have been making quite a few pull and ride-on toys for my grandchildren lately. They all need wheels, which I have had to purchase, since making multiples of the same size by hand with a band saw and sanders is extremely difficult. Also, finding the larger size wheels is difficult or very costly. Can the wheels be made on a lathe and, if so, how would I do it? I have just purchased a mid-size lathe and basic tools so I am a newbie to turning -- what other accessories would I need? - Kaare G. Numme Jr.


Tim Inman: My answer is a combination approach.
I'd use the band saw and a “circle jig ” to rough cut
the wheels. There isn't a faster way to do a lot of
wheels, and make them the same size, that I know
of. If you know the axle size for your wheels, you
can set up your circle jig with an axle sized pin for
your rough cuts. Drill the wood blanks to the axle
size, then slip them over the axle pin in your circle
jig. Cut the wheel.

A side note about band saw circle jigs. The design is
common and readily available in good woodworking
books. One simple change I have made is to mount
a guide rail on the bottom to fit the miter gauge slot
in my band saw fence. This lets me slide the jig and
rough blank into the cut, much like a crosscut sled.
When my jig hits the “stop” and is firmly in position,
I can then finish cutting the circle.

Once you have your blanks roughed into true circles, then, I'd set up a wooden sacrificial faceplate system on your lathe with that axle pin
size for a mandrel. You would then be able to place the rough wheel concentrically onto the face plate, and cut the final profile and do the finish sanding, etc. If your setup is well planned, I think you could
turn out nice wheels right and left! Good luck!

October 8, 2010

Free WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorers Guide Available

.

Another FREE ISSUE of our magazine, WoodFinishing & Furniture
Restorers' Guide, is now available!  Volume 1, Issue 4 is yours free for the taking, no strings attached.

Get your FREE ISSUE here.

We're giving away one free sample issue each month (more or less).  Just for full disclosure, we're offering the free issues as 'Bait' to intice you to buy the whole set.  If you don't want to buy it, and if you're really patient, you can have the whole set free - eventually.  But please consider buying the set if it is helpful or interesting to you.  It's the only way we can continue to bring this kind of information to you.  Somebody's gotta help pay the bills.....

I've just posted WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide Vol 1, Issue 4 for you. Click on the 'Articles' menu button, and you'll be ready to download it. You can download it free. It is in .pdf format, so use Adobe Acrobat, which you probably already have, and you can read it on your computer - or print your own paper copy. Vol 1, Issue 3 is no longer available for free download.

If you'd like to purchase the entire CD collection of these out-of-print issues of the little magazine we produced in the 1990's, they're ON SALE right now, and for the next week. I've taken $10.00 off the price, so the whole CD set is only $19.95, which includes FREE SHIPPING.

NEW! Now you can SAVE EVEN MORE by purchasing the DOWNLOADABLE VERSION for just $10.95 for the whole set.

So why buy the CD's? The CD set is electronically indexed so you can search for any word or topic across the entire 19 volume set. The downloadable issues are not indexed - but they're cheaper!)

Happy reading!



Tim Inman

Woodworkers Journal 259 Q&A




Is Cove-cutting on a Table Saw Safe?

I want to build coved, raised panel doors, but I do not have the equipment. I have seen several articles on the Internet where the table saw blade mills a cove on the panel's edges. This entails perpendicular movement of the panel blank across the table saw blade. I see this as a safety hazard without a blade guard, but what about the blade itself? Is it safe to use a table saw blade in this application, and can damage occur to the blade? - Don Horton

Tim Inman: This is a procedure for very highly skilled, very highly accomplished and experienced woodworkers. It can be done safely, but it is also a dangerous operation if not done correctly. Passing wood at an angle more or less “perpendicular” to the saw blade can indeed cut coves. The cut is NOT done all at once. Rather, the cove is cut by making multiple, progressively deeper passes. The exact angle determines the parabolic arch of the cove. A circular cove would indeed be passed at 90 degrees. An elliptical cove (more common) would be passed at some other angle. This operation requires shop-made auxiliary fences.

I do not recommend you attempt to make your panel door edges with this technique. If you have a number of panels to make, consider purchasing the correct tooling, or finding a friend that can help you. If you have only one or two, why not carve the coves? This isn't as difficult as you might imagine. A very sharp carving chisel or two, and some time, and you'll have your coved panels - and all your fingers left!

Chris Marshall: Don, as Tim points out, cutting coves on a table saw is definitely doable. Dialing in the correct angle of approach on the blade is what establishes the precise curvature of the cove, and that takes some mathematics or trial-and-error to get right. It's actually a pretty cool technique, and one I used to create a large picture frame in our December 2009 print issue. Take Tim's advice to heart: this is a technique that requires very shallow passes and a sturdy fence setup to execute safely, but it definitely can be done. Find a woodworking book that covers the setup process step by step, and follow it. Use a full-kerf blade for maximum stiffness. You won't bend the blade or turn your workpiece into a missile if you keep each pass limited to about 1/16 inch of material removal (or less) at a pass. Certainly, this is one of those techniques that doesn't lend itself to most typical guard styles. Use push pads and push sticks to keep your hands safely clear of the blade. Keep the wood pressed firmly down against the table at all times.


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Repairing Chair Leg Joints

I have a kitchen chair with loose legs. How do I fix them? - Kenneth Belcher

Tim Inman: The very best way to repair those loose legs is to completely disassemble the chair, clean the joints, and reglue it. There are alternatives, but they have shortcomings. I'll review two alternatives. First, If the joints are not too loose, or filled with layers and layers of paint, one possible alternative is to flood the joint (very carefully!) with cyanoacrylate glue. (Super Glue is one common brand name.) I prefer a CA that is “alcohol” thinned for this, because it will find its way deep into the joint through capillary action It will take care, patience and skill -- and more than one application. It works well. (WARNING: Somewhere on the label will be the words, "Bonds Skin Instantly." They ain't kiddin'.... Be very careful.)

Another alternative is to drill a tiny hole into the bottom of the joint, and inject an adhesive using a syringe. This, too, can be effective, depending upon the joint condition, the cleanliness of the joint and the kind of glue used. It can be difficult to force the glue throughout the joint. With both these methods, the joint is never cleaned. This ultimately spells trouble.

Better, though, is suggestion Number One. Take the chair apart, and do it right the first time. Clean the old glue away, fix any broken wood, and enjoy a long-lasting repair job. One little trick I can offer is to put two small pieces of removable masking tape at each joint. Number them "1" "1", "2" "2" and so on. This helps get the exact part back in the exact location when you are ready to apply new glue and reassemble. Just match up the numbered pieces and joints - and it all comes back together like magic.

Another secret weapon I use for regluing chairs is “shrink wrap.” I think you'll find a four-inch roll available at building stores, etc. It is common. Use it to replace clamps. It works like giant rubber bands or tourniquets. Shrink wrap banding makes bar clamps pretty much obsolete for chair gluing. It is better, faster, and easier. Make multiple “turns” until you have the pressure needed. Every “lap” adds more compression force. Be sure to set the chair on a flat surface to dry. Put a weight on the seat to hold all four legs down evenly.



Chris Marshall: With all of the forces a chair must resist (tension, compression, racking) as we drag them around, plus the weight of holding people, I'm skeptical about the strength of glue joints. Sooner or later, that glue will probably fail if the chairs get hard use. You might consider pinning the tenons in their sockets with a dowel driven into the chair legs perpendicular to the tenons. At least the dowel would provide a mechanical connection to reinforce the glue joint. If the glue does give way eventually, the cross dowels will still hold the joint together. But, you'll see the dowel ends with this approach...that's the price you pay for added insurance.



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Resolving a Rickety Bed Frame

I am a member of the Society for Creative Anachronisms (SCA), and we do a lot of camping. Because neither my wife nor I can sleep on the ground without waking up in a lot of pain, I built a queen-sized bed using glued together 2x4s as corner posts (since the only 4x4s that I could find that weren’t pressure treated turned out to be rotten), side rails made out of 2x10s, head- and footboards made from 2x12s (two boards, one on top of the other to make a tall headboard), four slats topped with three-quarter-inch plywood underneath a queen-sized futon mattress. The 2x0s, the 12x12s and the 2x4s I used to make the corner posts are all of white pine.


In order to make this bed easy to take apart for transport, I used hardware that is similar to that used on beds used in the house (fingers that fit into sockets). Unfortunately, the bed was very hard to set up: it fell apart on my son several times as he tried to set it up. To try and fix this, I replaced this hardware with hinges so that I could pop the pins out when I wanted to take the bed apart. However, the bed is not as stable as I would like. Can you give me any suggestions on what I can do to make this bed more stable? We will be using the bed the end of this month on a camping trip, but I am planning on rebuilding it from the ground up this fall/winter.

Since the bed is used for outdoor camping I was also thinking of using pressure treated 4x4s for the corner posts. - John Bridges



Chris Marshall: It sounds like the hinge hardware still allows too much play when the pins are installed to keep the framework tight and stable. I would want a better solution as well. You've also tried the bed rail fasteners, but with disappointing results. I have two ideas — both for you to consider when/if the time comes to rebuild that bed. First, consider using bed bolts run through the corner posts and threading into captured nuts in the rails. Tightening up this hardware should take the "slop" out of the bed frame and still give you the knockdown convenience you want for transport. You can see a photo of those bolts here. Rockler sells them, as do other woodworking suppliers. Another option would be to connect the rails to the corner posts with long through tenons, then use a wedge tusk to lock the tenons against the back sides of the posts (think of a traditional trestle table base). This would also give you a way to disassemble the frame, but building the frame would require more sophisticated woodworking at the outset.


Tim Inman: All that lumber is overkill, John. But, if that's what you want, then you have to deal with the consequences. There is no way in my mind that much lumber can be made lighter and easier to handle. Short of building the bed on a trailer, permanently, I'm at a loss. If it is just comfort you're after, why not use a nice inflatable mattress that folds up when you're done with it?

September 22, 2010

Q & A from Woodworkers Journal eZine 258

Here are my answers for the Woodworkers Journal eZine Issue 258:

Q & A
Dying and Finishing Maple Cabinets
I am about to start staining and finishing my new maple kitchen cabinets. Maple has proved
difficult to stain using everyday stains like Minwax® so, after a little research, I realized I
was going to have to use a dye stain. I have chosen to use General Finishes water-based dye
stain as it is easiest for a novice to use and penetrates the maple well. On my sample pieces,
I applied a wood conditioner and lightly sanded. I then applied the stain to the color I
wanted. I do not know what my best next step should be. Should I apply a sanding sealer,
then sand again, or is that necessary? I have also read that you cannot use sanding sealer
under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer, which is what I was thinking of finishing them
with. I am concerned with brushing on a final finish because I don't know if it will cause the
water-based dye stain to bleed into the liquid brush-on finish. Will it? Also, can I just use a
water-based finish like Deft water-based wood finish instead of the spray lacquer? I just
want to be sure and get it right. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. - Rebecca
Vosburg

Tim Inman:
and doing some testing first. Sample boards are your
friends! You will not only get a better result using them, but
you will also set yourself up to have some fun doing the real
job. Jumping in headfirst without testing or learning usually
results in headaches and disappointment for all of us.
Maple, one of the really dense woods, does indeed offer
interesting staining characteristics. Actually, some refer to it
as "blotchy" and others refer to it with more favor.
Whatever, it is natural for maple to NOT stain evenly.
I like to "sneak up" on my finishes. I think dye staining is a
great first step. However, I'd recommend you try using your
stain at about half-strength. With dyes, you can go back
later and add more to get a stronger richer color. Dyes are
not very forgiving, so test and sample before you launch.
After your dye has dried, a light sealer coat would be the
next step. I prefer what is called a "wash" of sealer. This
simply means you dilute your sealer material a lot. I often
use shellac cut to about 10 percent shellac and 90 percent
solvent (alcohol) as my sealing wash. Why? It goes on wet,
and "restores" the dry dye color. It soaks in, and it scuff
sands easily. If I want to add more color, I haven't clogged
up the wood with sealer. You could also use sanding sealer
as a wash — just dilute it with the appropriate solvent,
which is labeled on the can. Since you will be putting on
such a small amount of finish product, once it is completely dry, you should have no compatibility
issues with your chosen topcoat.
Now here's a place you might want to experiment a little more. This additional step is more work, but
the results can be fantastic. Oil stains do things to wood that water stains can't. You can have the best
of both. After scuff-sanding your dyed and wash-coat sealed wood, apply a coat of an oil-based wiping
stain. This is a stain that contains both dyes and pigments carried in a drying oil base. Your wood will
take on a rich, deep look as a result. Try this on a sample board first, but I'll bet you like the results
enough to do it on your whole project. Again, seal with a dilute wash coat. Allow it to dry completely,
It is just great that you're asking questions
this step.) Complete your finish. Send us pictures!
and scuff sand for smoothness. (Nylon Scotch-Brite™ or steel wool substitute may be all you need for(Editor's Note: Tim also noted that the book he's written,
Finishin
are available directly from author Tim Inman at
 l: In addition to Tim's thorough answer, I'll add only one more side note: You'll only beModifying Miter-framed Cabinet Doors
I want to put glass in my kitchen cabinet cathedral doors. I have read articles and seen
videos on how to do it. I have the skills to do so, but there is a problem. The doors have
mitered corners. On the inside of the doors, there are what appear to be metal wedges with
a tab that extends approximately 1/2" from the corners. This makes it impossible to route
the inside stiles and rails at all! I have been in contact with numerous cabinetmakers and
none of them have ever heard of these wedges being used or, for that matter, the corners
being mitered on the doors! I am in dire need of advice on how to tackle this job. If I am
lucky enough to knock out the wedges, will I stand a chance of destroying the doors beyond
being able to repair them? Is there an expert in your group who can lead me in the right
direction to follow, step by step? Need serious help! - Tony Grochowski

Tim Inman:
really nice to see. My confidence in my answer
would be much greater if I could see your doors!
But, here goes.
First, I agree that knocking apart the doors would
most likely lead to disaster. Using the procedure
I'm outlining here, I don't think it would be
necessary, either. I think you should be able to use
a router and jig to rout out the rabbet for the glass
everywhere but the last half inch or so, before you
hit that little metal devil in the miters. Then, I'd go
to hand tools. A simple little dovetail saw and a
scrap block guiding jig should let you saw one edge
of the rabbet close to the metal. A good sharp
chisel and you should be able to pare away the
remaining wood to reveal the metal part.
My secret weapon: For little trouble jobs like this, I
often find that an ordinary Dremel tool with an
abrasive cut-off saw does the trick. These little
saws "don't get no respect," as Rodney Dangerfield
used to say. My experience leaves me with a lot of respect for them. If you haven't used one, let me
describe the part. It looks like a little disc of abrasive material (sandpaper-like) about the size of a
quarter. It has a hole in the center that lets it mount to a work arbor. It is not simply sandpaper; it is a
solid carbide abrasive type material. It will cut metal easily, both ferrous and nonferrous. I think you'll
be surprised how readily this little saw will cut off the offending part. Be sure to cushion the glass when
you install it so it doesn't rub the metal edge and "Zing!" off an edge of your glass. If this answer
misses the mark for you, please email us a picture!
A picture of your problem would beChris Marshall:
the metal wedges must serve a structural purpose of some sort to keep the mitered rails and stiles
connected. I can't imagine how or why they would hold the wooden panels in place that are currently in
your doors. The metal might even be the only mechanical connection holding the frames together,
besides a glue bond. If you dive into installing that glass, pick a door you can afford to sacrifice before
removing the metal wedges. If the wedges do come out, consider reinforcing the corner joints with
some other mechanical connection (dowels or screws) just in case. The glass will add weight to the
frames and consequently more stress when you open and close them.

I'm less optimistic than Tim about this one. If your cabinet doors are factory-made,Best Lubricant for Wood Screws?
My husband and I are making windows for our cottage. We would like to know if there is a
paste or lubricant we can use for long wood screws that will allow them to thread easily and
protect them from rust? Just in case 10 years from now the window needed to be replaced,
so as not to break the screws off. - Lucinda

Tim Inman:
screw so the threads don't have to push or swell the wood as they go in deeper. Hard woods need a
larger pilot hole, softer woods get a smaller diameter fit. I find that ordinary bar soap makes a great
lube for screws. Beeswax works great, too. There are arguments for and against, but all in all, I use
both and find nearly identical results. I've been restoring furniture for pay for 47 years now, and I have
had occasion to refinish a piece or two the second time, after decades of service. The screws were not
rusted, and they were holding tight when I removed them — again.
A well-fitted pilot hole drill is your first best thing to do. Drill the pilot hole as deep as the

Chris Marshal
in danger of smearing water-based dye if you topcoat it with a finish that contains water as its
solvent— such as water-based varnish. Water will redissolve the dye in the wood and could lead to a
mess. Once the dye is encapsulated under a seal coat as Tim discusses, any finish (even water-based)
should work fine. Or, if you don't use a sealer over the dye, pick a topcoat with a different solvent base
(shellac or oil-based varnishes are safe choices).

The Art of Classical Furnitureg, "covers all this and more." It is available from Amazon.com or autographed copieswww.historicinteriors.co.)m

September 7, 2010

Q & A from Woodworkers Journal eZine 257

Woodworkers Journal eZine 257 Q & A

Formula for Plywood Thickness?

I'm building some furniture for my son -- bed, headboard, bookshelves. We're going to use plywood. Is there a formula for determining what thickness of plywood I should use? I can guesstimate it by looking at the thickness and how much I can get the large sheet to bend, but is there a rule that determines what thickness is needed for given dimensions and expected load?- Chip McDaniel

Tim Inman: From your question, it sounds as though you are wanting to make curved or bent surfaces. Without knowing more, it is very difficult to give good advice. However, if you are wanting to make pieces with significant curves, I'd suggest using a product called “bending ply” for your lay-ups. For serious work, I'd laminate multiple pieces of 1/4 inch bending ply to get the curve, and the thickness, you'll need for your structure.

Causes for Floppy Biscuits

I have a Ryobi biscuit jointer that cuts slots for 0, 10, and #20 biscuits. I upgraded to the newer unit because I had a smaller unit that cut slots where the biscuit would literally flop around in the slot, making a good joint impossible (unless I did something wrong). Anyway, with this new jointer, the biscuits still flop around, only not as much. But a tight fit there isn't. When possible, I watch The New Yankee Workshop with Norm Abram. I noticed when he uses a biscuit jointer, the biscuits fit tightly, with no flop. So my question is this: Are there consistency standards in the biscuit manufacturing industry, or are the machines that cut the slots using different size cutters? I am annoyed when I purchase a unit like this and can't get a good outcome. Or am I doing something wrong? Please help. - Tom M.

Tim Inman: Have you tried a different batch of biscuits? This sounds too simple, but it may not be the tool, but rather the insert biscuits that are undersized If you get a sloppy fit from more than one source of biscuits, then the tool - or the tool user - need to be questioned. My biscuit joiner leaves me with a nice, snug fit -- with multiple sources of biscuits. If I need a looser fit, I can manipulate the tool and make the groove sloppy. So from that, I can say the operator does have control over the fit. Maybe you're making multiple cuts on the same groove? Be sure the guide surfaces on the cutter are flat and seated before you plunge the cut.

Preventing Tearout

I just got a Box Joint sled from Rockler and started to make small drawers from Baltic birch plywood. Is there a trick to prevent the tearout from the spiral router blade on the plywood? I was thinking of either rolling glue onto the edge or sandwiching the plywood between two sacrificial pieces of wood. Any suggestions? - Abbott Fleur


Tim Inman: Perfection is always more difficult. If the little tearout is too much, then some sort of "sacrificial" surface is probably your best answer. Sometimes a little tape can do the trick. Adhere masking tape along the edge before you make your cuts. That jig makes it easy to lay another piece over the "real" one. I'd suggest something like 1/8-inch Masonite or hardboard to protect the finish wood, and let the bit cut clean. You may need to sandwich the workpiece between two sacrificial ones so both the front and theback cut clean.

FEEDBACK:

We received a little feedback on my answer to a questioner wanting to know how to get a hole through a lamp stand he had already turned.  The wood was 15-inches long.  My sage advice was to drill from both ends to meet in the middle, then use a piece of 1/8-inch threaded pipe to join the fittings together. 

It seems one of our readers felt I was 'more furniture maker than turner' and thought we had missed the mark by not telling the fellow to turn the piece in his lathe and drill it there.  Of course, that would be my first choice!  But, I was answering the question put before me - by an obviously inexperienced crafter.  Our reader suggested buying a lamp drill, which is always good.  (Never pass a chance to add to your tool room!) 

For me, using a time-honored 'D' drill would be the best.  D drills are always shop made.  They are made with high speed steel or high carbon/vanadium chrome drill rod.  The cutting end, when ground properly, resembles a 'D' exactly.  These are the drills used by the ancients to bore straight holes in important things like gun barrels and ivory cigarette holders and pipe stems, etc.  They will not 'lead' off to the side, but instead find the center and follow it straight and true every time.


Let me know if you have an interest in learning more about 'D' drills - or anything else I might be able to share with you about.  Just leave a comment with the tool at the bottom of this blog.

Until then, Good luck!

Tim Inman

August 24, 2010

Q&A from Woodworker's Journal eZine




As many of you know, I answer questions about woodworking, furnituremaking, and restoration.  One of the places I do this is at Woodworker's Journal.  They publish my answers about every two weeks in their online 'eZine.'  You might want to take a look at the eZine.  Here are the Questions, and our answers, for this issue.



Wondering About Wobble


I purchased a new band saw about four months ago. How can I minimize wobble on the blade? It seems that, no matter how tight I crank it, or how much I let out, I still get periods of wobble during cuts which leads to ridged lines. - Mike Zanette

Tim Inman: I'm not sure exactly what your problem is, so I'm guessing. My first instinct is to replace that blade and try a different one. If the blade welds are not done correctly, the edge of the blade may be distorted so that it does not travel in one plane. Try laying the blade flat on its back on a concrete floor or other flat surface. It should be in contact with the floor all the way around. If you can see anyplace where the back edge is lifted up (probably right around the weld!) then Bingo! We know the trouble. Actually, it might be a good idea to test your new blade for “flatness” before you put it in, too.

Another place to look is at the tires that go over the wheels. They may not be “round.” If your saw sat in a warehouse with the blade on, and tensioned, there may well be a flat or compressed side of the rubber tire. This would cause “wobble,” too. Check the wheels themselves. Are they “round?” The wheels must be concentric, and true, or the blade will get a jumpy ride every time the wheel goes around.

Finally, if your saw is only four months old, I would go back to the vendor and have a serious talk with them. Either this problem has a simple fix, or you have a defective machine. I know all the tool vendors I deal with, and have dealt with in the past, do not want unhappy customers when they can cure the problem. If you bought a $50 saw, don't expect them to offer you a $500 cure, though. Let us know when you find the problem - and what your solution was.

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Drilling Turned Lamp Stands for Wiring

Could you please tell me how to drill a through hole down the center of a 15-inch turned table lamp stand to allow wire to be threaded? - Anuradha Muthu

Tim Inman: Straight. OK, I'm sorry I said that. Here's a better answer: Usually, lamp fixtures mount on 1/8-inch pipe threads. You can buy this pipe at just about any hardware store in convenient lengths -- threaded all the way. Fasten it tight into the lamp by screwing on a pipe nut and washer on either end. This makes a nice clean-finished looking job. So, since you have the pipe to do the work, and the washers to hide a little “slosh,” here's how I'd do the drilling. I would use a spade drill instead of a machinist's twist drill. I'd use one that is about 1/8-inch oversized so the pipe can slip in easily. Then, since your lamp post is only 15 inches long, I'd drill half way through, starting at each end. That way, you only have eight inches or so to bore each way. Clamp the post so you can get a good line-of-sight and trust your eye. Again, since you will use a continuous piece of 1/8-inch pipe to finish the job, you don't need to hit the hole “dead-on” when your drill meets in the middle.

Sounds crude, but it will work. Next time, especially if you laminate wood for the post, consider making a cut before you do your glue-up so you already have the hole where you need it. Then turn around that center.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim's last suggestion here — next time, cut the groove for the wiring first at the table saw with a dado set. Then glue up the square blank and turn it from there. I don't trust my deep drilling skills enough for straightness, but maybe if you go the route of boring in from either end you'll have better luck than I probably would at meeting in the middle. Best of luck!

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Mixing Two Titebond Types

I have several almost empty bottles of Titebond I and Titebond II lying around. Would it destroy the glue, or make it all Titebond I, if I combined both in one bottle? - Gerard Maul

Tim Inman: I don't think this is a good place to be thrifty. The old saying is, "Penny wise, Pound foolish." I think there is good advice in that phrase. Just think, if you try to save a buck's worth of glue - and then the magic combination mixture fails during or after your project is underway, what have you really saved? Those glues are easily disposed of, so I'd say pitch 'em and get yourself some new glue. That's what I'd do -- and I'm about as thrifty as they come. (Some call it Iowa Cheap!)

Mark Roberts: Mixing Titebond Original Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue should be OK as long as the user understands that the projects he uses the mixture on are for interior use only. By mixing the two adhesives, the level of water resistance will be degraded. (Mark Roberts provides technical assistance at Franklin International, makers of Titebond adhesives.)

March 31, 2010

Free Copy of WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide Newsletter

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Here's a little 'freebie' treat for my faithful readers.

Back in the 1990's we published a newsletter for furniture restorers - both professionals and active hobbyists. We published over a span of nearly 4 years, with nineteen volumes created during that time. It has been out of print-on-paper for a long time. We have scanned the original artboards, and now I'm making it available to readers once again.

About once a month - more or less, no promises! - I'll make an issue available to you for FREE. It is in .pdf format, so you can download it, and read it on your computer, your e-reader, or you can even go old-school and print it out on paper if you want.

Of course, I'm still a merchant, and if you want to own the entire set right away, and not have to wait for a couple of years to get it all, you can buy them all on CD at our online store. Just click this link, and you can order your own set - and I'll even throw in some free extra stuff to say thanks and make it worth your while.

Enjoy!

March 19, 2010

Antique Roadshow Article by Peter Cook

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A number of folks have asked for copies of the article written by Peter Cook, an executive producer for the Antique Roadshow series.  In that article, which was published in the magazine, Professional Refinishing, June 2002, Mr. Cook says, "Let the record show that Antiques roadshow generally agrees with this notion:  Well-conceived and well-executed refinishing and restoration usually enhances the value of just about any piece of old furniture."

It is an article we use (with permission from the publisher) as a handout in our shop, and at shows.  It really helps people to understand that the furniture in their homes is not 'Roadshow' quality, or period, and that it is OK to have it refinished, restored, or professionally cared for.  If you have questions about refinishing old furniture, or if you might have customers who do, I suggest you make a copy of this article for your own use.  Again, we do have permission from the publisher to do this.

The article is posted on our website, http://www.historicinteriors.com/.  You can go there to get your copy, or you can just click this link, and it will take you to the Roadshow Article there.

Please feel free to use the 'comment' option below to add your 2-cents worth.

Tim B. Inman

March 12, 2010

Does Refinishing Hurt the Value of My Antique?



"Does refinishing hurt the value of my antique?"

I get this question over and over again, so maybe it is an appropriate place to begin this blog.

The 'Hoosier' cabinet in the picture is just as I saw it the first time. It is a falling-apart piece of junk. But, it was 'Grandma's' and it is meaningful to the owners. Unquestionably, it will cost more to restore this cabinet than it could ever be worth on the open market. Equally unquestionable is that the 'value' of this piece can only be driven in one direction - up!

The problem is the owners had been watching the Antique Road Show, and they were convinced that having this cupboard repaired and restored would be the wrong thing to do, since it would 'destroy its value.' They actually said that to me. Really. They did. They weren't being flip or teasing. They were dead honest serious about it. They were wanting it to be nice again, and they were wanting it to be a remembrance from the days when their grandmother was alive and using it in her home. How can we have come so far away from 'values'?

In my WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide  Google Group, we've discussed this issue. I've even offered to make a copy of a magazine article available, written by Peter Cook, an executive producer of the Antique Road Show. In that article, Mr. Cook expresses his hope that the show has not been misleading to people about the need and worth of caring for their furniture. Nevertheless, people who watch the show assume their 'antique' is on a par with the hand made period furniture being evaluated by the Keno Brothers and others. In my professional opinion, a cabinet like the one in the picture isn't worth firewood without restoration, and even then, the restoration work must be done for the sentimental, or family, value. It will never be 'worth' the investment in care services, except to the owners. Without care, though, it will certainly be destined to return to the ashes from whence it came.

March 12, 2010
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