Q&A from Woodworker's Journal eZine

As many of you know, I answer questions about woodworking, furnituremaking, and restoration.  One of the places I do this is at Woodworker's Journal.  They publish my answers about every two weeks in their online 'eZine.'  You might want to take a look at the eZine.  Here are the Questions, and our answers, for this issue.



Wondering About Wobble


I purchased a new band saw about four months ago. How can I minimize wobble on the blade? It seems that, no matter how tight I crank it, or how much I let out, I still get periods of wobble during cuts which leads to ridged lines. - Mike Zanette

Tim Inman: I'm not sure exactly what your problem is, so I'm guessing. My first instinct is to replace that blade and try a different one. If the blade welds are not done correctly, the edge of the blade may be distorted so that it does not travel in one plane. Try laying the blade flat on its back on a concrete floor or other flat surface. It should be in contact with the floor all the way around. If you can see anyplace where the back edge is lifted up (probably right around the weld!) then Bingo! We know the trouble. Actually, it might be a good idea to test your new blade for “flatness” before you put it in, too.

Another place to look is at the tires that go over the wheels. They may not be “round.” If your saw sat in a warehouse with the blade on, and tensioned, there may well be a flat or compressed side of the rubber tire. This would cause “wobble,” too. Check the wheels themselves. Are they “round?” The wheels must be concentric, and true, or the blade will get a jumpy ride every time the wheel goes around.

Finally, if your saw is only four months old, I would go back to the vendor and have a serious talk with them. Either this problem has a simple fix, or you have a defective machine. I know all the tool vendors I deal with, and have dealt with in the past, do not want unhappy customers when they can cure the problem. If you bought a $50 saw, don't expect them to offer you a $500 cure, though. Let us know when you find the problem - and what your solution was.

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Drilling Turned Lamp Stands for Wiring

Could you please tell me how to drill a through hole down the center of a 15-inch turned table lamp stand to allow wire to be threaded? - Anuradha Muthu

Tim Inman: Straight. OK, I'm sorry I said that. Here's a better answer: Usually, lamp fixtures mount on 1/8-inch pipe threads. You can buy this pipe at just about any hardware store in convenient lengths -- threaded all the way. Fasten it tight into the lamp by screwing on a pipe nut and washer on either end. This makes a nice clean-finished looking job. So, since you have the pipe to do the work, and the washers to hide a little “slosh,” here's how I'd do the drilling. I would use a spade drill instead of a machinist's twist drill. I'd use one that is about 1/8-inch oversized so the pipe can slip in easily. Then, since your lamp post is only 15 inches long, I'd drill half way through, starting at each end. That way, you only have eight inches or so to bore each way. Clamp the post so you can get a good line-of-sight and trust your eye. Again, since you will use a continuous piece of 1/8-inch pipe to finish the job, you don't need to hit the hole “dead-on” when your drill meets in the middle.

Sounds crude, but it will work. Next time, especially if you laminate wood for the post, consider making a cut before you do your glue-up so you already have the hole where you need it. Then turn around that center.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim's last suggestion here — next time, cut the groove for the wiring first at the table saw with a dado set. Then glue up the square blank and turn it from there. I don't trust my deep drilling skills enough for straightness, but maybe if you go the route of boring in from either end you'll have better luck than I probably would at meeting in the middle. Best of luck!

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Mixing Two Titebond Types

I have several almost empty bottles of Titebond I and Titebond II lying around. Would it destroy the glue, or make it all Titebond I, if I combined both in one bottle? - Gerard Maul

Tim Inman: I don't think this is a good place to be thrifty. The old saying is, "Penny wise, Pound foolish." I think there is good advice in that phrase. Just think, if you try to save a buck's worth of glue - and then the magic combination mixture fails during or after your project is underway, what have you really saved? Those glues are easily disposed of, so I'd say pitch 'em and get yourself some new glue. That's what I'd do -- and I'm about as thrifty as they come. (Some call it Iowa Cheap!)

Mark Roberts: Mixing Titebond Original Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue should be OK as long as the user understands that the projects he uses the mixture on are for interior use only. By mixing the two adhesives, the level of water resistance will be degraded. (Mark Roberts provides technical assistance at Franklin International, makers of Titebond adhesives.)