Q & A from Woodworkers Journal eZine 258

Here are my answers for the Woodworkers Journal eZine Issue 258:

Q & A
Dying and Finishing Maple Cabinets
I am about to start staining and finishing my new maple kitchen cabinets. Maple has proved
difficult to stain using everyday stains like Minwax® so, after a little research, I realized I
was going to have to use a dye stain. I have chosen to use General Finishes water-based dye
stain as it is easiest for a novice to use and penetrates the maple well. On my sample pieces,
I applied a wood conditioner and lightly sanded. I then applied the stain to the color I
wanted. I do not know what my best next step should be. Should I apply a sanding sealer,
then sand again, or is that necessary? I have also read that you cannot use sanding sealer
under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer, which is what I was thinking of finishing them
with. I am concerned with brushing on a final finish because I don't know if it will cause the
water-based dye stain to bleed into the liquid brush-on finish. Will it? Also, can I just use a
water-based finish like Deft water-based wood finish instead of the spray lacquer? I just
want to be sure and get it right. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. - Rebecca
Vosburg

Tim Inman:
and doing some testing first. Sample boards are your
friends! You will not only get a better result using them, but
you will also set yourself up to have some fun doing the real
job. Jumping in headfirst without testing or learning usually
results in headaches and disappointment for all of us.
Maple, one of the really dense woods, does indeed offer
interesting staining characteristics. Actually, some refer to it
as "blotchy" and others refer to it with more favor.
Whatever, it is natural for maple to NOT stain evenly.
I like to "sneak up" on my finishes. I think dye staining is a
great first step. However, I'd recommend you try using your
stain at about half-strength. With dyes, you can go back
later and add more to get a stronger richer color. Dyes are
not very forgiving, so test and sample before you launch.
After your dye has dried, a light sealer coat would be the
next step. I prefer what is called a "wash" of sealer. This
simply means you dilute your sealer material a lot. I often
use shellac cut to about 10 percent shellac and 90 percent
solvent (alcohol) as my sealing wash. Why? It goes on wet,
and "restores" the dry dye color. It soaks in, and it scuff
sands easily. If I want to add more color, I haven't clogged
up the wood with sealer. You could also use sanding sealer
as a wash — just dilute it with the appropriate solvent,
which is labeled on the can. Since you will be putting on
such a small amount of finish product, once it is completely dry, you should have no compatibility
issues with your chosen topcoat.
Now here's a place you might want to experiment a little more. This additional step is more work, but
the results can be fantastic. Oil stains do things to wood that water stains can't. You can have the best
of both. After scuff-sanding your dyed and wash-coat sealed wood, apply a coat of an oil-based wiping
stain. This is a stain that contains both dyes and pigments carried in a drying oil base. Your wood will
take on a rich, deep look as a result. Try this on a sample board first, but I'll bet you like the results
enough to do it on your whole project. Again, seal with a dilute wash coat. Allow it to dry completely,It is just great that you're asking questions
this step.) Complete your finish. Send us pictures!
and scuff sand for smoothness. (Nylon Scotch-Brite™ or steel wool substitute may be all you need for(Editor's Note: Tim also noted that the book he's written,
Finishin
are available directly from author Tim Inman at
 l: In addition to Tim's thorough answer, I'll add only one more side note: You'll only beModifying Miter-framed Cabinet Doors
I want to put glass in my kitchen cabinet cathedral doors. I have read articles and seen
videos on how to do it. I have the skills to do so, but there is a problem. The doors have
mitered corners. On the inside of the doors, there are what appear to be metal wedges with
a tab that extends approximately 1/2" from the corners. This makes it impossible to route
the inside stiles and rails at all! I have been in contact with numerous cabinetmakers and
none of them have ever heard of these wedges being used or, for that matter, the corners
being mitered on the doors! I am in dire need of advice on how to tackle this job. If I am
lucky enough to knock out the wedges, will I stand a chance of destroying the doors beyond
being able to repair them? Is there an expert in your group who can lead me in the right
direction to follow, step by step? Need serious help! - Tony Grochowski

Tim Inman:
really nice to see. My confidence in my answer
would be much greater if I could see your doors!
But, here goes.
First, I agree that knocking apart the doors would
most likely lead to disaster. Using the procedure
I'm outlining here, I don't think it would be
necessary, either. I think you should be able to use
a router and jig to rout out the rabbet for the glass
everywhere but the last half inch or so, before you
hit that little metal devil in the miters. Then, I'd go
to hand tools. A simple little dovetail saw and a
scrap block guiding jig should let you saw one edge
of the rabbet close to the metal. A good sharp
chisel and you should be able to pare away the
remaining wood to reveal the metal part.
My secret weapon: For little trouble jobs like this, I
often find that an ordinary Dremel tool with an
abrasive cut-off saw does the trick. These little
saws "don't get no respect," as Rodney Dangerfield
used to say. My experience leaves me with a lot of respect for them. If you haven't used one, let me
describe the part. It looks like a little disc of abrasive material (sandpaper-like) about the size of a
quarter. It has a hole in the center that lets it mount to a work arbor. It is not simply sandpaper; it is a
solid carbide abrasive type material. It will cut metal easily, both ferrous and nonferrous. I think you'll
be surprised how readily this little saw will cut off the offending part. Be sure to cushion the glass when
you install it so it doesn't rub the metal edge and "Zing!" off an edge of your glass. If this answer
misses the mark for you, please email us a picture!
A picture of your problem would beChris Marshall:
the metal wedges must serve a structural purpose of some sort to keep the mitered rails and stiles
connected. I can't imagine how or why they would hold the wooden panels in place that are currently in
your doors. The metal might even be the only mechanical connection holding the frames together,
besides a glue bond. If you dive into installing that glass, pick a door you can afford to sacrifice before
removing the metal wedges. If the wedges do come out, consider reinforcing the corner joints with
some other mechanical connection (dowels or screws) just in case. The glass will add weight to the
frames and consequently more stress when you open and close them.

I'm less optimistic than Tim about this one. If your cabinet doors are factory-made,Best Lubricant for Wood Screws?
My husband and I are making windows for our cottage. We would like to know if there is a
paste or lubricant we can use for long wood screws that will allow them to thread easily and
protect them from rust? Just in case 10 years from now the window needed to be replaced,
so as not to break the screws off. - Lucinda

Tim Inman:
screw so the threads don't have to push or swell the wood as they go in deeper. Hard woods need a
larger pilot hole, softer woods get a smaller diameter fit. I find that ordinary bar soap makes a great
lube for screws. Beeswax works great, too. There are arguments for and against, but all in all, I use
both and find nearly identical results. I've been restoring furniture for pay for 47 years now, and I have
had occasion to refinish a piece or two the second time, after decades of service. The screws were not
rusted, and they were holding tight when I removed them — again.A well-fitted pilot hole drill is your first best thing to do. Drill the pilot hole as deep as the
Chris Marshal
in danger of smearing water-based dye if you topcoat it with a finish that contains water as its
solvent— such as water-based varnish. Water will redissolve the dye in the wood and could lead to a
mess. Once the dye is encapsulated under a seal coat as Tim discusses, any finish (even water-based)
should work fine. Or, if you don't use a sealer over the dye, pick a topcoat with a different solvent base
(shellac or oil-based varnishes are safe choices).

The Art of Classical Furnitureg, "covers all this and more." It is available from Amazon.com or autographed copieswww.historicinteriors.co.)m

Q & A from Woodworkers Journal eZine 257

Woodworkers Journal eZine 257 Q & A

Formula for Plywood Thickness?

I'm building some furniture for my son -- bed, headboard, bookshelves. We're going to use plywood. Is there a formula for determining what thickness of plywood I should use? I can guesstimate it by looking at the thickness and how much I can get the large sheet to bend, but is there a rule that determines what thickness is needed for given dimensions and expected load?- Chip McDaniel

Tim Inman: From your question, it sounds as though you are wanting to make curved or bent surfaces. Without knowing more, it is very difficult to give good advice. However, if you are wanting to make pieces with significant curves, I'd suggest using a product called “bending ply” for your lay-ups. For serious work, I'd laminate multiple pieces of 1/4 inch bending ply to get the curve, and the thickness, you'll need for your structure.

Causes for Floppy Biscuits

I have a Ryobi biscuit jointer that cuts slots for 0, 10, and #20 biscuits. I upgraded to the newer unit because I had a smaller unit that cut slots where the biscuit would literally flop around in the slot, making a good joint impossible (unless I did something wrong). Anyway, with this new jointer, the biscuits still flop around, only not as much. But a tight fit there isn't. When possible, I watch The New Yankee Workshop with Norm Abram. I noticed when he uses a biscuit jointer, the biscuits fit tightly, with no flop. So my question is this: Are there consistency standards in the biscuit manufacturing industry, or are the machines that cut the slots using different size cutters? I am annoyed when I purchase a unit like this and can't get a good outcome. Or am I doing something wrong? Please help. - Tom M.

Tim Inman: Have you tried a different batch of biscuits? This sounds too simple, but it may not be the tool, but rather the insert biscuits that are undersized If you get a sloppy fit from more than one source of biscuits, then the tool - or the tool user - need to be questioned. My biscuit joiner leaves me with a nice, snug fit -- with multiple sources of biscuits. If I need a looser fit, I can manipulate the tool and make the groove sloppy. So from that, I can say the operator does have control over the fit. Maybe you're making multiple cuts on the same groove? Be sure the guide surfaces on the cutter are flat and seated before you plunge the cut.

Preventing Tearout

I just got a Box Joint sled from Rockler and started to make small drawers from Baltic birch plywood. Is there a trick to prevent the tearout from the spiral router blade on the plywood? I was thinking of either rolling glue onto the edge or sandwiching the plywood between two sacrificial pieces of wood. Any suggestions? - Abbott Fleur


Tim Inman: Perfection is always more difficult. If the little tearout is too much, then some sort of "sacrificial" surface is probably your best answer. Sometimes a little tape can do the trick. Adhere masking tape along the edge before you make your cuts. That jig makes it easy to lay another piece over the "real" one. I'd suggest something like 1/8-inch Masonite or hardboard to protect the finish wood, and let the bit cut clean. You may need to sandwich the workpiece between two sacrificial ones so both the front and theback cut clean.

FEEDBACK:

We received a little feedback on my answer to a questioner wanting to know how to get a hole through a lamp stand he had already turned.  The wood was 15-inches long.  My sage advice was to drill from both ends to meet in the middle, then use a piece of 1/8-inch threaded pipe to join the fittings together. 

It seems one of our readers felt I was 'more furniture maker than turner' and thought we had missed the mark by not telling the fellow to turn the piece in his lathe and drill it there.  Of course, that would be my first choice!  But, I was answering the question put before me - by an obviously inexperienced crafter.  Our reader suggested buying a lamp drill, which is always good.  (Never pass a chance to add to your tool room!) 

For me, using a time-honored 'D' drill would be the best.  D drills are always shop made.  They are made with high speed steel or high carbon/vanadium chrome drill rod.  The cutting end, when ground properly, resembles a 'D' exactly.  These are the drills used by the ancients to bore straight holes in important things like gun barrels and ivory cigarette holders and pipe stems, etc.  They will not 'lead' off to the side, but instead find the center and follow it straight and true every time.


Let me know if you have an interest in learning more about 'D' drills - or anything else I might be able to share with you about.  Just leave a comment with the tool at the bottom of this blog.

Until then, Good luck!

Tim Inman

Q&A from Woodworker's Journal eZine

As many of you know, I answer questions about woodworking, furnituremaking, and restoration.  One of the places I do this is at Woodworker's Journal.  They publish my answers about every two weeks in their online 'eZine.'  You might want to take a look at the eZine.  Here are the Questions, and our answers, for this issue.



Wondering About Wobble


I purchased a new band saw about four months ago. How can I minimize wobble on the blade? It seems that, no matter how tight I crank it, or how much I let out, I still get periods of wobble during cuts which leads to ridged lines. - Mike Zanette

Tim Inman: I'm not sure exactly what your problem is, so I'm guessing. My first instinct is to replace that blade and try a different one. If the blade welds are not done correctly, the edge of the blade may be distorted so that it does not travel in one plane. Try laying the blade flat on its back on a concrete floor or other flat surface. It should be in contact with the floor all the way around. If you can see anyplace where the back edge is lifted up (probably right around the weld!) then Bingo! We know the trouble. Actually, it might be a good idea to test your new blade for “flatness” before you put it in, too.

Another place to look is at the tires that go over the wheels. They may not be “round.” If your saw sat in a warehouse with the blade on, and tensioned, there may well be a flat or compressed side of the rubber tire. This would cause “wobble,” too. Check the wheels themselves. Are they “round?” The wheels must be concentric, and true, or the blade will get a jumpy ride every time the wheel goes around.

Finally, if your saw is only four months old, I would go back to the vendor and have a serious talk with them. Either this problem has a simple fix, or you have a defective machine. I know all the tool vendors I deal with, and have dealt with in the past, do not want unhappy customers when they can cure the problem. If you bought a $50 saw, don't expect them to offer you a $500 cure, though. Let us know when you find the problem - and what your solution was.

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Drilling Turned Lamp Stands for Wiring

Could you please tell me how to drill a through hole down the center of a 15-inch turned table lamp stand to allow wire to be threaded? - Anuradha Muthu

Tim Inman: Straight. OK, I'm sorry I said that. Here's a better answer: Usually, lamp fixtures mount on 1/8-inch pipe threads. You can buy this pipe at just about any hardware store in convenient lengths -- threaded all the way. Fasten it tight into the lamp by screwing on a pipe nut and washer on either end. This makes a nice clean-finished looking job. So, since you have the pipe to do the work, and the washers to hide a little “slosh,” here's how I'd do the drilling. I would use a spade drill instead of a machinist's twist drill. I'd use one that is about 1/8-inch oversized so the pipe can slip in easily. Then, since your lamp post is only 15 inches long, I'd drill half way through, starting at each end. That way, you only have eight inches or so to bore each way. Clamp the post so you can get a good line-of-sight and trust your eye. Again, since you will use a continuous piece of 1/8-inch pipe to finish the job, you don't need to hit the hole “dead-on” when your drill meets in the middle.

Sounds crude, but it will work. Next time, especially if you laminate wood for the post, consider making a cut before you do your glue-up so you already have the hole where you need it. Then turn around that center.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim's last suggestion here — next time, cut the groove for the wiring first at the table saw with a dado set. Then glue up the square blank and turn it from there. I don't trust my deep drilling skills enough for straightness, but maybe if you go the route of boring in from either end you'll have better luck than I probably would at meeting in the middle. Best of luck!

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Mixing Two Titebond Types

I have several almost empty bottles of Titebond I and Titebond II lying around. Would it destroy the glue, or make it all Titebond I, if I combined both in one bottle? - Gerard Maul

Tim Inman: I don't think this is a good place to be thrifty. The old saying is, "Penny wise, Pound foolish." I think there is good advice in that phrase. Just think, if you try to save a buck's worth of glue - and then the magic combination mixture fails during or after your project is underway, what have you really saved? Those glues are easily disposed of, so I'd say pitch 'em and get yourself some new glue. That's what I'd do -- and I'm about as thrifty as they come. (Some call it Iowa Cheap!)

Mark Roberts: Mixing Titebond Original Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue should be OK as long as the user understands that the projects he uses the mixture on are for interior use only. By mixing the two adhesives, the level of water resistance will be degraded. (Mark Roberts provides technical assistance at Franklin International, makers of Titebond adhesives.)

Free Copy of WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide Newsletter

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Here's a little 'freebie' treat for my faithful readers.

Back in the 1990's we published a newsletter for furniture restorers - both professionals and active hobbyists. We published over a span of nearly 4 years, with nineteen volumes created during that time. It has been out of print-on-paper for a long time. We have scanned the original artboards, and now I'm making it available to readers once again.

About once a month - more or less, no promises! - I'll make an issue available to you for FREE. It is in .pdf format, so you can download it, and read it on your computer, your e-reader, or you can even go old-school and print it out on paper if you want.

Of course, I'm still a merchant, and if you want to own the entire set right away, and not have to wait for a couple of years to get it all, you can buy them all on CD at our online store. Just click this link, and you can order your own set - and I'll even throw in some free extra stuff to say thanks and make it worth your while.

Enjoy!

Tim Inman: Restoration Renaissance Man | Articles | Woodworker's Journal eZine

Tim Inman: Restoration Renaissance Man | Articles | Woodworker's Journal eZine

Antique Roadshow Article by Peter Cook

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A number of folks have asked for copies of the article written by Peter Cook, an executive producer for the Antique Roadshow series.  In that article, which was published in the magazine, Professional Refinishing, June 2002, Mr. Cook says, "Let the record show that Antiques roadshow generally agrees with this notion:  Well-conceived and well-executed refinishing and restoration usually enhances the value of just about any piece of old furniture."

It is an article we use (with permission from the publisher) as a handout in our shop, and at shows.  It really helps people to understand that the furniture in their homes is not 'Roadshow' quality, or period, and that it is OK to have it refinished, restored, or professionally cared for.  If you have questions about refinishing old furniture, or if you might have customers who do, I suggest you make a copy of this article for your own use.  Again, we do have permission from the publisher to do this.

The article is posted on our website, http://www.historicinteriors.com/.  You can go there to get your copy, or you can just click this link, and it will take you to the Roadshow Article there.

Please feel free to use the 'comment' option below to add your 2-cents worth.

Tim B. Inman

Does Refinishing Hurt the Value of My Antique?

"Does refinishing hurt the value of my antique?"

I get this question over and over again, so maybe it is an appropriate place to begin this blog.

The 'Hoosier' cabinet in the picture is just as I saw it the first time. It is a falling-apart piece of junk. But, it was 'Grandma's' and it is meaningful to the owners. Unquestionably, it will cost more to restore this cabinet than it could ever be worth on the open market. Equally unquestionable is that the 'value' of this piece can only be driven in one direction - up!

The problem is the owners had been watching the Antique Road Show, and they were convinced that having this cupboard repaired and restored would be the wrong thing to do, since it would 'destroy its value.' They actually said that to me. Really. They did. They weren't being flip or teasing. They were dead honest serious about it. They were wanting it to be nice again, and they were wanting it to be a remembrance from the days when their grandmother was alive and using it in her home. How can we have come so far away from 'values'?

In my WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide  Google Group, we've discussed this issue. I've even offered to make a copy of a magazine article available, written by Peter Cook, an executive producer of the Antique Road Show. In that article, Mr. Cook expresses his hope that the show has not been misleading to people about the need and worth of caring for their furniture. Nevertheless, people who watch the show assume their 'antique' is on a par with the hand made period furniture being evaluated by the Keno Brothers and others. In my professional opinion, a cabinet like the one in the picture isn't worth firewood without restoration, and even then, the restoration work must be done for the sentimental, or family, value. It will never be 'worth' the investment in care services, except to the owners. Without care, though, it will certainly be destined to return to the ashes from whence it came.

March 12, 2010