Posts
March 9, 2011
Woodworkers Journal 270 Q & A's
Removing Rust Rings from Cast Iron?
Could someone tell me how to clean rust and rings left by someone leaving glass on my table saw? It made a real mess and no one is admitting they did it. The rust is my fault. I look forward to your eZine. Lots of tips and just plain good old advice to us wood-be woodworkers. - Bob Bean
Tim Inman: There is a pleasure in having and using a perfect, bright, shiny table top on our tools. It is often, sadly, a short-lived one. Those stains can be very very difficult to remove. A simple sanding with very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper (400- or 600-grit) will remove the roughness. A good paste waxing rubbed in with #0000 steel wool will make it slick again. But the chances are that you'll always be able to see that visual blemish. That said, I have many antique tools in my shop that aren's so much "lookers" as they are great to use. My late 1800s Crescent brand jointer is one example. It was salvaged from the Beloit Wagon Works factory, in Beloit, Wisconsin in the early 1980s. It had been relegated to a leaky storeroom and was just one huge rust bucket when I found it. It is now polished, painted, and fully functional - but the top shows the rust stains to this day. It also shows the hand scraper marks where the original top had been HAND worked flat and true; something no new tool in a wood worker's shop would show today. I wouldn't trade it for a shiny brand-new one, ever.
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Anchoring a New Railing?
My son has a split-level home and the upper living room has a wrought iron railing along the stairs. I want to replace it with a walnut railing, but I’m not sure how best to anchor it so it will provide proper support and safety. Any suggestions? - John Blessing
Tim Inman: There are some very well designed commercial anchoring systems available. Rockler is one source I have used personally.You are right to want a well-anchored installation. The balustrade must be more than an ornament. It is a functional safety system which should be supported by the framing members (joists, headers, stringers, etc.) of the building whenever possible, not the facia or mop boards!
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How Thick Should a Butcher Block Countertop Be?
My son has asked me to build a butcher block countertop for the new kitchen in their newly remodeled home. Will build it out of soft or hard maple. It needs to be 50" x 90". Question: on a top that large, is it appropriate to build it in 12' - 13' sections that then are glued together for the final phase? Also, how thick does the butcher block top need to be? I've seen plans that look to be about 1" or 1-1/2' thick. It has been suggested that the top should be 2" thick because of the large size. Should that contribute to the thickness of the project?- Doug Selfe
Tim Inman: One man's butcher block is another man's (or woman's) idea of just another wooden workbench top. There are differences in definition. Traditionally, a "butcher block" was made so the end grain was the working surface. This involves gluing up thousands of little blocks to get the end product on a job like yours. Expansion and contraction is the enemy, and the "force majeure." The top made this way will be stable in the vertical dimension, but it will swell and shrink like crazy in the horizontal directions. A lot, and often.
Most often, the "butcher block" countertop is actually wood pieces laid up with quarter cut wood, so the swelling and shrinking is directed more to the vertical dimension, like an old-fashioned wooden porch floor, making the counter more dimensionally stable along the horizontal dimensions.
Either way you make it, dimensional stability is your goal, and your worry. Making small workspace-sized pieces that can insert into a visually pleasing frame system that will tolerate some movement is a great idea.Whatever you do, allow for wood movement so you won't be disappointed a year or two after the installation.
February 11, 2011
Here are some Q&A's from my Woodworker's Journal Ezine replys.
Saving Spongy Wood?
I am restoring an old oak rocking chair that has been outside in the weather. I have sanded down the chair, removing the old dirty surface. The oak wood seems to be unusually soft on the surface. I plan to use spar varnish on the new surface. Is there anything special that I should do to prepare the chair for finishing? - Bill Barker
Tim Inman: That soft surface is evidence, more than likely, that the wood fibers have been broken down by the sun. Ultraviolet light and weather destroy everything. UV light attacks the lignin that holds those wood fibers together. Then, the actual cellulose of the fibers begins to decay. Water just hurries things along. Sometimes one can sand off the ruined surface and expose a nice new one to finish and enjoy. Other times, the damage is too deep. Varnish alone will not "consolidate" the surface and make it hard enough for use. There are things like epoxies and polyesters which can be used. Caution: Test first to be sure this will be right for you. The damage you're seeing is part of the history of that chair. Maybe you could keep some of the damage, and tolerate the imperfection, without doing further damage to the wood.
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Sun-burned Woodworking?
The recent mention of the pyrography book reminded me of something I had read recently – solar wood burning. I can see some benefits from using the sun and a magnifying lens to burn wood, such as low operating cost and the burn point will glide effortlessly over opposing grain and other bumps or uneven surfaces. However, I am wondering if the concentrated spot of light will be damaging to eyes, and what sort of precautions may be reasonable to take before trying this. Your thoughts are appreciated. - Lance Gardner
Tim Inman: As a boy, I remember fondly learning of the energy of concentrated beams of light focused by my grandmother's magnifying glass. What power I had in my hands. The ants, however...
Yes, solar power can be concentrated to the degree needed to burn wood. Laser cutters are, after all, nothing but concentrated and highly specialized forms of light. If I were interested in doing artistic woodburning, and willing to spend the time to execute my designs, I think I would opt for either a laser, or a conventional burning knife setup. Skimping on my tools has never worked to my benefit, in the long run. It might be fun to try the solar option, though!
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Right Speed for Bowl Sanding?
I have read Betty Scarpino's article on Lathe Sanding Secrets [on woodworking.com] and would like clarification on one part of it. When hand sanding a bowl, she recommends sanding at a slow speed. Can you be a bit more specific, please? 300 - 500 - 800 ? After turning a project at 1,800 rpm or better, everything to me seems slow. Appreciate your help and keep up the great work! - Gary Kostick
Tim Inman: Well, this might give everybody a headache, but let me just say two things about speed and sanding: One, sanding speed is a very personal preference based upon the operator (you), the wood type, the size and shapes of the object in question, and the results you're after.
Two, rpm gets all the press, but it is actually fpm that is more important. Here's the headache part, because math gets involved. R stands for revolutions. This is easy to measure and understand: how many times per minute does the object spin around? The answer is the same for a thimble as it is for a big punch bowl. Easy to count. But the really important issue is F, which stands for feet per minute. This varies depending upon the diameter of the object being turned. In other words, how many "feet" of wood surface actually show up to be sanded in one minute? If the object is a thimble, with a diameter of .5 inches, then the fpm would be something like 65 fpm at 500 rpm. On the other hand, if you're turning a punch bowl with a diameter of 18 inches, then the fpm would be about 2,355 feet at 500 rpm: over 35 times as much sanding surface in the same time spinning on the lathe. Considered another way, the thimble represents running a piece of sandpaper the length of your shop and back in one minute. The bowl means you need to run that same sandpaper almost half a mile in one minute!
Fpm is important to understand because not only is there more surface to sand on big projects, the faster that surface passes under the sandpaper, the hotter that sandpaper gets - and heat is ultimately what kills sandpaper and spoils good surface prep. Use the slowest speed that does the job the way you like it; that's my rule.
Saving Spongy Wood?
I am restoring an old oak rocking chair that has been outside in the weather. I have sanded down the chair, removing the old dirty surface. The oak wood seems to be unusually soft on the surface. I plan to use spar varnish on the new surface. Is there anything special that I should do to prepare the chair for finishing? - Bill Barker
Tim Inman: That soft surface is evidence, more than likely, that the wood fibers have been broken down by the sun. Ultraviolet light and weather destroy everything. UV light attacks the lignin that holds those wood fibers together. Then, the actual cellulose of the fibers begins to decay. Water just hurries things along. Sometimes one can sand off the ruined surface and expose a nice new one to finish and enjoy. Other times, the damage is too deep. Varnish alone will not "consolidate" the surface and make it hard enough for use. There are things like epoxies and polyesters which can be used. Caution: Test first to be sure this will be right for you. The damage you're seeing is part of the history of that chair. Maybe you could keep some of the damage, and tolerate the imperfection, without doing further damage to the wood.
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Sun-burned Woodworking?
The recent mention of the pyrography book reminded me of something I had read recently – solar wood burning. I can see some benefits from using the sun and a magnifying lens to burn wood, such as low operating cost and the burn point will glide effortlessly over opposing grain and other bumps or uneven surfaces. However, I am wondering if the concentrated spot of light will be damaging to eyes, and what sort of precautions may be reasonable to take before trying this. Your thoughts are appreciated. - Lance Gardner
Tim Inman: As a boy, I remember fondly learning of the energy of concentrated beams of light focused by my grandmother's magnifying glass. What power I had in my hands. The ants, however...
Yes, solar power can be concentrated to the degree needed to burn wood. Laser cutters are, after all, nothing but concentrated and highly specialized forms of light. If I were interested in doing artistic woodburning, and willing to spend the time to execute my designs, I think I would opt for either a laser, or a conventional burning knife setup. Skimping on my tools has never worked to my benefit, in the long run. It might be fun to try the solar option, though!
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Right Speed for Bowl Sanding?
I have read Betty Scarpino's article on Lathe Sanding Secrets [on woodworking.com] and would like clarification on one part of it. When hand sanding a bowl, she recommends sanding at a slow speed. Can you be a bit more specific, please? 300 - 500 - 800 ? After turning a project at 1,800 rpm or better, everything to me seems slow. Appreciate your help and keep up the great work! - Gary Kostick
Tim Inman: Well, this might give everybody a headache, but let me just say two things about speed and sanding: One, sanding speed is a very personal preference based upon the operator (you), the wood type, the size and shapes of the object in question, and the results you're after.
Two, rpm gets all the press, but it is actually fpm that is more important. Here's the headache part, because math gets involved. R stands for revolutions. This is easy to measure and understand: how many times per minute does the object spin around? The answer is the same for a thimble as it is for a big punch bowl. Easy to count. But the really important issue is F, which stands for feet per minute. This varies depending upon the diameter of the object being turned. In other words, how many "feet" of wood surface actually show up to be sanded in one minute? If the object is a thimble, with a diameter of .5 inches, then the fpm would be something like 65 fpm at 500 rpm. On the other hand, if you're turning a punch bowl with a diameter of 18 inches, then the fpm would be about 2,355 feet at 500 rpm: over 35 times as much sanding surface in the same time spinning on the lathe. Considered another way, the thimble represents running a piece of sandpaper the length of your shop and back in one minute. The bowl means you need to run that same sandpaper almost half a mile in one minute!
Fpm is important to understand because not only is there more surface to sand on big projects, the faster that surface passes under the sandpaper, the hotter that sandpaper gets - and heat is ultimately what kills sandpaper and spoils good surface prep. Use the slowest speed that does the job the way you like it; that's my rule.
January 25, 2011
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Here are some more of my Q & A's. These are from Woodworkers Journal 267
How Often to Clean Saw Blades?
I know a clean table saw blade will cut better, but I've never read anywhere how often I should clean my blades. Once a month, once a week, every other day? - Max Harnisch
Tim Inman: The best answer I can possibly give is this: Clean it when it is dirty. Without being impertinent, it is a matter of judgment and objectivity. If you're doing the finest of fine work, you're going to notice your blade needs cleaning frequently -- probably daily. If you're making chicken coops from scrap lumber, you may not notice much difference whether the blade is clean or not. Clean, sharp blades are not only a pleasure to use, they yield better work -- and they are a lot safer!
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Fixing Indentations on Faux Wood?
I have refinished over 300 dining room chairs for two hotels. I learned a lot doing them and have done some other simple wood restorative projects. I have run across a very complicated challenge to repair scratch marks on a wood table that were not deep but looked more like indentations. It is the newer products being sold now that are manufactured rather than the old style of wood that is finished. I tried to do something with it but found that it is not like restoring actual wood. Usually these types of manufactured wood furniture are with a satin look and act more like resin. Is there any way to repair these types of damages? Thanks if anyone can steer me in the right direction. - Darlene Betterton
Tim Inman: If we could see a picture, it would really help. Otherwise, I feel like a blind man with no hands trying to solve your problem. So many ways, so little time...
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Getting the Hang of Hanging Doors?
I have a question about mounting cabinet doors. I normally make my cabinets with full overlay doors. My problem is mounting them. Is there an easy way to hold and mount the door so you have the same 3/8" overlay all around? I mount the hinges to the door first but have difficulty holding the door to mount it to the stile and maintain the proper overlay. - Ron Bohland
Tim Inman: Here are a couple of approaches. If you're just fitting one or two, I would use a piece of old-fashioned blackboard chalk and draw a line around the opening where you want the door to be. Fit to the lines. The chalk will wipe off cleanly when you're done, and nobody will be the wiser. (Use a piece of sandpaper to "sharpen" the chalk to a nice chisel point to make your line as fine as it can be.) If you're setting a lot of doors, then it might be worth your time to make up a little jig to hold the door while you do your work. Keeping the top and/or bottom edges of the doors in a nice straight line is important. You can do this by just clamping a scrap along the bottom edge of the cabinets. Set the doors on the ledge, which will set the vertical positioning, and then align "left-to-right" as needed so you can set your hinges.
Here are some more of my Q & A's. These are from Woodworkers Journal 267
How Often to Clean Saw Blades?
I know a clean table saw blade will cut better, but I've never read anywhere how often I should clean my blades. Once a month, once a week, every other day? - Max Harnisch
Tim Inman: The best answer I can possibly give is this: Clean it when it is dirty. Without being impertinent, it is a matter of judgment and objectivity. If you're doing the finest of fine work, you're going to notice your blade needs cleaning frequently -- probably daily. If you're making chicken coops from scrap lumber, you may not notice much difference whether the blade is clean or not. Clean, sharp blades are not only a pleasure to use, they yield better work -- and they are a lot safer!
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Fixing Indentations on Faux Wood?
I have refinished over 300 dining room chairs for two hotels. I learned a lot doing them and have done some other simple wood restorative projects. I have run across a very complicated challenge to repair scratch marks on a wood table that were not deep but looked more like indentations. It is the newer products being sold now that are manufactured rather than the old style of wood that is finished. I tried to do something with it but found that it is not like restoring actual wood. Usually these types of manufactured wood furniture are with a satin look and act more like resin. Is there any way to repair these types of damages? Thanks if anyone can steer me in the right direction. - Darlene Betterton
Tim Inman: If we could see a picture, it would really help. Otherwise, I feel like a blind man with no hands trying to solve your problem. So many ways, so little time...
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Getting the Hang of Hanging Doors?
I have a question about mounting cabinet doors. I normally make my cabinets with full overlay doors. My problem is mounting them. Is there an easy way to hold and mount the door so you have the same 3/8" overlay all around? I mount the hinges to the door first but have difficulty holding the door to mount it to the stile and maintain the proper overlay. - Ron Bohland
Tim Inman: Here are a couple of approaches. If you're just fitting one or two, I would use a piece of old-fashioned blackboard chalk and draw a line around the opening where you want the door to be. Fit to the lines. The chalk will wipe off cleanly when you're done, and nobody will be the wiser. (Use a piece of sandpaper to "sharpen" the chalk to a nice chisel point to make your line as fine as it can be.) If you're setting a lot of doors, then it might be worth your time to make up a little jig to hold the door while you do your work. Keeping the top and/or bottom edges of the doors in a nice straight line is important. You can do this by just clamping a scrap along the bottom edge of the cabinets. Set the doors on the ledge, which will set the vertical positioning, and then align "left-to-right" as needed so you can set your hinges.
October 26, 2010
Woodworker's Journal 260 Q&A's
Q & A
Best Option for Hanging Dresser Drawers?
I've been a subscriber for over two years now and have been very pleased with your magazine. I plan on building a Craftsman style dresser using all solid wood and traditional joinery. I also plan on hand cutting the dovetail drawers. Needless to say, this project will take quite a while for me, and I want it to be as functional as it is beautiful. I like the smoothness of ball bearing slides, but I don't want see metal slides when I open a drawer.
My question is: How did they make drawers slide smoothly back then? How can I do it now while maintaining the traditional look?- Shane
Tim Inman: Shane, the way they made those
drawers slide easily was by quality construction, and
fitting them properly! When I was learning how to
build drawers, my instructor's standard was the
“one-finger push” rule. It worked like this: When I
was ready to be graded, he pulled the drawer out to
one-third of its length. Then, using only one finger,
he pushed the drawer back into place until it rested
correctly against its stops -- all the way around the
opening. The trick was that his finger pushed at all
four corners of the drawer, in turn, pushing the
drawer back into place. First, he'd push on the top
right corner. If that worked, he'd try again and push
on the bottom right corner; then top left, bottom
left, and I'd get a grade. Any resistance or binding,
and I got a ' ”do-over” and a scowl!
If the drawer fits too tightly, it will bind. If the
drawer has too much play, it will also cock off to
one side, and bind. I discovered that a piece of
cardboard from the back of a yellow legal pad gave
me about the right clearance. So, that cardboard
'”feeler gauge ” became my best friend as I constructed drawers. When I had that much space between the drawer and the sides of the cabinet guides, and when the drawer was properly waxed with a candle or beeswax, it worked every time.
How can you do it? My recommendations: Plan A: Do it just like the old masters did. Build the cabinet well, and fit the drawer properly. Plan B: there are metal ball bearing guides that fit underneath the drawer invisibly. Plan C: There are a number of polymer glides and tracking materials available that will improve the drawer operation. See Option A.
Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim. There's a lot of original Stickley furniture with drawers still being put to good use. Think of how proud you'll be to build a set of drawers with traditional supports and have them work as well as Tim points out. I would give it a "go" to build your dresser as traditionally as you can. But, if practicality is the primary motivator—and that's sometimes the wisest choice—I'd try undermount drawer slide hardware.
What Are Double Profile Doors?
What, my friends, is a double profile door? Does that mean it is just as fancy inside as it is
outside? - Jerry Fischer
Tim Inman: I'm not sure, either. I suspect it is a term of art in the kitchen cabinet marketing world to mean both the top and bottom rails of the door are shaped, or “profiled.”
Chris Marshall: You've got me there, too. Can any other eZine readers help out with this terminology?
Turning Toy Wheels?
I have been making quite a few pull and ride-on toys for my grandchildren lately. They all need wheels, which I have had to purchase, since making multiples of the same size by hand with a band saw and sanders is extremely difficult. Also, finding the larger size wheels is difficult or very costly. Can the wheels be made on a lathe and, if so, how would I do it? I have just purchased a mid-size lathe and basic tools so I am a newbie to turning -- what other accessories would I need? - Kaare G. Numme Jr.
Tim Inman: My answer is a combination approach.
I'd use the band saw and a “circle jig ” to rough cut
the wheels. There isn't a faster way to do a lot of
wheels, and make them the same size, that I know
of. If you know the axle size for your wheels, you
can set up your circle jig with an axle sized pin for
your rough cuts. Drill the wood blanks to the axle
size, then slip them over the axle pin in your circle
jig. Cut the wheel.
A side note about band saw circle jigs. The design is
common and readily available in good woodworking
books. One simple change I have made is to mount
a guide rail on the bottom to fit the miter gauge slot
in my band saw fence. This lets me slide the jig and
rough blank into the cut, much like a crosscut sled.
When my jig hits the “stop” and is firmly in position,
I can then finish cutting the circle.
Once you have your blanks roughed into true circles, then, I'd set up a wooden sacrificial faceplate system on your lathe with that axle pin
size for a mandrel. You would then be able to place the rough wheel concentrically onto the face plate, and cut the final profile and do the finish sanding, etc. If your setup is well planned, I think you could
turn out nice wheels right and left! Good luck!
October 8, 2010
Free WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorers Guide Available
.
Another FREE ISSUE of our magazine, WoodFinishing & Furniture
Restorers' Guide, is now available! Volume 1, Issue 4 is yours free for the taking, no strings attached.
Get your FREE ISSUE here.
We're giving away one free sample issue each month (more or less). Just for full disclosure, we're offering the free issues as 'Bait' to intice you to buy the whole set. If you don't want to buy it, and if you're really patient, you can have the whole set free - eventually. But please consider buying the set if it is helpful or interesting to you. It's the only way we can continue to bring this kind of information to you. Somebody's gotta help pay the bills.....
I've just posted WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide Vol 1, Issue 4 for you. Click on the 'Articles' menu button, and you'll be ready to download it. You can download it free. It is in .pdf format, so use Adobe Acrobat, which you probably already have, and you can read it on your computer - or print your own paper copy. Vol 1, Issue 3 is no longer available for free download.
If you'd like to purchase the entire CD collection of these out-of-print issues of the little magazine we produced in the 1990's, they're ON SALE right now, and for the next week. I've taken $10.00 off the price, so the whole CD set is only $19.95, which includes FREE SHIPPING.
NEW! Now you can SAVE EVEN MORE by purchasing the DOWNLOADABLE VERSION for just $10.95 for the whole set.
So why buy the CD's? The CD set is electronically indexed so you can search for any word or topic across the entire 19 volume set. The downloadable issues are not indexed - but they're cheaper!)
Happy reading!
Tim Inman
Another FREE ISSUE of our magazine, WoodFinishing & Furniture
Restorers' Guide, is now available! Volume 1, Issue 4 is yours free for the taking, no strings attached.
Get your FREE ISSUE here.
We're giving away one free sample issue each month (more or less). Just for full disclosure, we're offering the free issues as 'Bait' to intice you to buy the whole set. If you don't want to buy it, and if you're really patient, you can have the whole set free - eventually. But please consider buying the set if it is helpful or interesting to you. It's the only way we can continue to bring this kind of information to you. Somebody's gotta help pay the bills.....
I've just posted WoodFinishing & Furniture Restorer's Guide Vol 1, Issue 4 for you. Click on the 'Articles' menu button, and you'll be ready to download it. You can download it free. It is in .pdf format, so use Adobe Acrobat, which you probably already have, and you can read it on your computer - or print your own paper copy. Vol 1, Issue 3 is no longer available for free download.
If you'd like to purchase the entire CD collection of these out-of-print issues of the little magazine we produced in the 1990's, they're ON SALE right now, and for the next week. I've taken $10.00 off the price, so the whole CD set is only $19.95, which includes FREE SHIPPING.
NEW! Now you can SAVE EVEN MORE by purchasing the DOWNLOADABLE VERSION for just $10.95 for the whole set.
So why buy the CD's? The CD set is electronically indexed so you can search for any word or topic across the entire 19 volume set. The downloadable issues are not indexed - but they're cheaper!)
Happy reading!
Tim Inman
Woodworkers Journal 259 Q&A
Is Cove-cutting on a Table Saw Safe?
I want to build coved, raised panel doors, but I do not have the equipment. I have seen several articles on the Internet where the table saw blade mills a cove on the panel's edges. This entails perpendicular movement of the panel blank across the table saw blade. I see this as a safety hazard without a blade guard, but what about the blade itself? Is it safe to use a table saw blade in this application, and can damage occur to the blade? - Don Horton
Tim Inman: This is a procedure for very highly skilled, very highly accomplished and experienced woodworkers. It can be done safely, but it is also a dangerous operation if not done correctly. Passing wood at an angle more or less “perpendicular” to the saw blade can indeed cut coves. The cut is NOT done all at once. Rather, the cove is cut by making multiple, progressively deeper passes. The exact angle determines the parabolic arch of the cove. A circular cove would indeed be passed at 90 degrees. An elliptical cove (more common) would be passed at some other angle. This operation requires shop-made auxiliary fences.
I do not recommend you attempt to make your panel door edges with this technique. If you have a number of panels to make, consider purchasing the correct tooling, or finding a friend that can help you. If you have only one or two, why not carve the coves? This isn't as difficult as you might imagine. A very sharp carving chisel or two, and some time, and you'll have your coved panels - and all your fingers left!
Chris Marshall: Don, as Tim points out, cutting coves on a table saw is definitely doable. Dialing in the correct angle of approach on the blade is what establishes the precise curvature of the cove, and that takes some mathematics or trial-and-error to get right. It's actually a pretty cool technique, and one I used to create a large picture frame in our December 2009 print issue. Take Tim's advice to heart: this is a technique that requires very shallow passes and a sturdy fence setup to execute safely, but it definitely can be done. Find a woodworking book that covers the setup process step by step, and follow it. Use a full-kerf blade for maximum stiffness. You won't bend the blade or turn your workpiece into a missile if you keep each pass limited to about 1/16 inch of material removal (or less) at a pass. Certainly, this is one of those techniques that doesn't lend itself to most typical guard styles. Use push pads and push sticks to keep your hands safely clear of the blade. Keep the wood pressed firmly down against the table at all times.
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Repairing Chair Leg Joints
I have a kitchen chair with loose legs. How do I fix them? - Kenneth Belcher
Tim Inman: The very best way to repair those loose legs is to completely disassemble the chair, clean the joints, and reglue it. There are alternatives, but they have shortcomings. I'll review two alternatives. First, If the joints are not too loose, or filled with layers and layers of paint, one possible alternative is to flood the joint (very carefully!) with cyanoacrylate glue. (Super Glue is one common brand name.) I prefer a CA that is “alcohol” thinned for this, because it will find its way deep into the joint through capillary action It will take care, patience and skill -- and more than one application. It works well. (WARNING: Somewhere on the label will be the words, "Bonds Skin Instantly." They ain't kiddin'.... Be very careful.)
Another alternative is to drill a tiny hole into the bottom of the joint, and inject an adhesive using a syringe. This, too, can be effective, depending upon the joint condition, the cleanliness of the joint and the kind of glue used. It can be difficult to force the glue throughout the joint. With both these methods, the joint is never cleaned. This ultimately spells trouble.
Better, though, is suggestion Number One. Take the chair apart, and do it right the first time. Clean the old glue away, fix any broken wood, and enjoy a long-lasting repair job. One little trick I can offer is to put two small pieces of removable masking tape at each joint. Number them "1" "1", "2" "2" and so on. This helps get the exact part back in the exact location when you are ready to apply new glue and reassemble. Just match up the numbered pieces and joints - and it all comes back together like magic.
Another secret weapon I use for regluing chairs is “shrink wrap.” I think you'll find a four-inch roll available at building stores, etc. It is common. Use it to replace clamps. It works like giant rubber bands or tourniquets. Shrink wrap banding makes bar clamps pretty much obsolete for chair gluing. It is better, faster, and easier. Make multiple “turns” until you have the pressure needed. Every “lap” adds more compression force. Be sure to set the chair on a flat surface to dry. Put a weight on the seat to hold all four legs down evenly.
Chris Marshall: With all of the forces a chair must resist (tension, compression, racking) as we drag them around, plus the weight of holding people, I'm skeptical about the strength of glue joints. Sooner or later, that glue will probably fail if the chairs get hard use. You might consider pinning the tenons in their sockets with a dowel driven into the chair legs perpendicular to the tenons. At least the dowel would provide a mechanical connection to reinforce the glue joint. If the glue does give way eventually, the cross dowels will still hold the joint together. But, you'll see the dowel ends with this approach...that's the price you pay for added insurance.
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Resolving a Rickety Bed Frame
I am a member of the Society for Creative Anachronisms (SCA), and we do a lot of camping. Because neither my wife nor I can sleep on the ground without waking up in a lot of pain, I built a queen-sized bed using glued together 2x4s as corner posts (since the only 4x4s that I could find that weren’t pressure treated turned out to be rotten), side rails made out of 2x10s, head- and footboards made from 2x12s (two boards, one on top of the other to make a tall headboard), four slats topped with three-quarter-inch plywood underneath a queen-sized futon mattress. The 2x0s, the 12x12s and the 2x4s I used to make the corner posts are all of white pine.
In order to make this bed easy to take apart for transport, I used hardware that is similar to that used on beds used in the house (fingers that fit into sockets). Unfortunately, the bed was very hard to set up: it fell apart on my son several times as he tried to set it up. To try and fix this, I replaced this hardware with hinges so that I could pop the pins out when I wanted to take the bed apart. However, the bed is not as stable as I would like. Can you give me any suggestions on what I can do to make this bed more stable? We will be using the bed the end of this month on a camping trip, but I am planning on rebuilding it from the ground up this fall/winter.
Since the bed is used for outdoor camping I was also thinking of using pressure treated 4x4s for the corner posts. - John Bridges
Chris Marshall: It sounds like the hinge hardware still allows too much play when the pins are installed to keep the framework tight and stable. I would want a better solution as well. You've also tried the bed rail fasteners, but with disappointing results. I have two ideas — both for you to consider when/if the time comes to rebuild that bed. First, consider using bed bolts run through the corner posts and threading into captured nuts in the rails. Tightening up this hardware should take the "slop" out of the bed frame and still give you the knockdown convenience you want for transport. You can see a photo of those bolts here. Rockler sells them, as do other woodworking suppliers. Another option would be to connect the rails to the corner posts with long through tenons, then use a wedge tusk to lock the tenons against the back sides of the posts (think of a traditional trestle table base). This would also give you a way to disassemble the frame, but building the frame would require more sophisticated woodworking at the outset.
Tim Inman: All that lumber is overkill, John. But, if that's what you want, then you have to deal with the consequences. There is no way in my mind that much lumber can be made lighter and easier to handle. Short of building the bed on a trailer, permanently, I'm at a loss. If it is just comfort you're after, why not use a nice inflatable mattress that folds up when you're done with it?
September 22, 2010
Q & A from Woodworkers Journal eZine 258
Here are my answers for the Woodworkers Journal eZine Issue 258:
Q & A
Dying and Finishing Maple Cabinets
I am about to start staining and finishing my new maple kitchen cabinets. Maple has proved
difficult to stain using everyday stains like Minwax® so, after a little research, I realized I
was going to have to use a dye stain. I have chosen to use General Finishes water-based dye
stain as it is easiest for a novice to use and penetrates the maple well. On my sample pieces,
I applied a wood conditioner and lightly sanded. I then applied the stain to the color I
wanted. I do not know what my best next step should be. Should I apply a sanding sealer,
then sand again, or is that necessary? I have also read that you cannot use sanding sealer
under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer, which is what I was thinking of finishing them
with. I am concerned with brushing on a final finish because I don't know if it will cause the
water-based dye stain to bleed into the liquid brush-on finish. Will it? Also, can I just use a
water-based finish like Deft water-based wood finish instead of the spray lacquer? I just
want to be sure and get it right. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. - Rebecca
Vosburg
Tim Inman:
and doing some testing first. Sample boards are your
friends! You will not only get a better result using them, but
you will also set yourself up to have some fun doing the real
job. Jumping in headfirst without testing or learning usually
results in headaches and disappointment for all of us.
Maple, one of the really dense woods, does indeed offer
interesting staining characteristics. Actually, some refer to it
as "blotchy" and others refer to it with more favor.
Whatever, it is natural for maple to NOT stain evenly.
I like to "sneak up" on my finishes. I think dye staining is a
great first step. However, I'd recommend you try using your
stain at about half-strength. With dyes, you can go back
later and add more to get a stronger richer color. Dyes are
not very forgiving, so test and sample before you launch.
After your dye has dried, a light sealer coat would be the
next step. I prefer what is called a "wash" of sealer. This
simply means you dilute your sealer material a lot. I often
use shellac cut to about 10 percent shellac and 90 percent
solvent (alcohol) as my sealing wash. Why? It goes on wet,
and "restores" the dry dye color. It soaks in, and it scuff
sands easily. If I want to add more color, I haven't clogged
up the wood with sealer. You could also use sanding sealer
as a wash — just dilute it with the appropriate solvent,
which is labeled on the can. Since you will be putting on
such a small amount of finish product, once it is completely dry, you should have no compatibility
issues with your chosen topcoat.
Now here's a place you might want to experiment a little more. This additional step is more work, but
the results can be fantastic. Oil stains do things to wood that water stains can't. You can have the best
of both. After scuff-sanding your dyed and wash-coat sealed wood, apply a coat of an oil-based wiping
stain. This is a stain that contains both dyes and pigments carried in a drying oil base. Your wood will
take on a rich, deep look as a result. Try this on a sample board first, but I'll bet you like the results
enough to do it on your whole project. Again, seal with a dilute wash coat. Allow it to dry completely,It is just great that you're asking questions
this step.) Complete your finish. Send us pictures!
and scuff sand for smoothness. (Nylon Scotch-Brite™ or steel wool substitute may be all you need for(Editor's Note: Tim also noted that the book he's written,
Finishin
are available directly from author Tim Inman at
l: In addition to Tim's thorough answer, I'll add only one more side note: You'll only beModifying Miter-framed Cabinet Doors
I want to put glass in my kitchen cabinet cathedral doors. I have read articles and seen
videos on how to do it. I have the skills to do so, but there is a problem. The doors have
mitered corners. On the inside of the doors, there are what appear to be metal wedges with
a tab that extends approximately 1/2" from the corners. This makes it impossible to route
the inside stiles and rails at all! I have been in contact with numerous cabinetmakers and
none of them have ever heard of these wedges being used or, for that matter, the corners
being mitered on the doors! I am in dire need of advice on how to tackle this job. If I am
lucky enough to knock out the wedges, will I stand a chance of destroying the doors beyond
being able to repair them? Is there an expert in your group who can lead me in the right
direction to follow, step by step? Need serious help! - Tony Grochowski
Tim Inman:
really nice to see. My confidence in my answer
would be much greater if I could see your doors!
But, here goes.
First, I agree that knocking apart the doors would
most likely lead to disaster. Using the procedure
I'm outlining here, I don't think it would be
necessary, either. I think you should be able to use
a router and jig to rout out the rabbet for the glass
everywhere but the last half inch or so, before you
hit that little metal devil in the miters. Then, I'd go
to hand tools. A simple little dovetail saw and a
scrap block guiding jig should let you saw one edge
of the rabbet close to the metal. A good sharp
chisel and you should be able to pare away the
remaining wood to reveal the metal part.
My secret weapon: For little trouble jobs like this, I
often find that an ordinary Dremel tool with an
abrasive cut-off saw does the trick. These little
saws "don't get no respect," as Rodney Dangerfield
used to say. My experience leaves me with a lot of respect for them. If you haven't used one, let me
describe the part. It looks like a little disc of abrasive material (sandpaper-like) about the size of a
quarter. It has a hole in the center that lets it mount to a work arbor. It is not simply sandpaper; it is a
solid carbide abrasive type material. It will cut metal easily, both ferrous and nonferrous. I think you'll
be surprised how readily this little saw will cut off the offending part. Be sure to cushion the glass when
you install it so it doesn't rub the metal edge and "Zing!" off an edge of your glass. If this answer
misses the mark for you, please email us a picture!
A picture of your problem would beChris Marshall:
the metal wedges must serve a structural purpose of some sort to keep the mitered rails and stiles
connected. I can't imagine how or why they would hold the wooden panels in place that are currently in
your doors. The metal might even be the only mechanical connection holding the frames together,
besides a glue bond. If you dive into installing that glass, pick a door you can afford to sacrifice before
removing the metal wedges. If the wedges do come out, consider reinforcing the corner joints with
some other mechanical connection (dowels or screws) just in case. The glass will add weight to the
frames and consequently more stress when you open and close them.
I'm less optimistic than Tim about this one. If your cabinet doors are factory-made,Best Lubricant for Wood Screws?
My husband and I are making windows for our cottage. We would like to know if there is a
paste or lubricant we can use for long wood screws that will allow them to thread easily and
protect them from rust? Just in case 10 years from now the window needed to be replaced,
so as not to break the screws off. - Lucinda
Tim Inman:
screw so the threads don't have to push or swell the wood as they go in deeper. Hard woods need a
larger pilot hole, softer woods get a smaller diameter fit. I find that ordinary bar soap makes a great
lube for screws. Beeswax works great, too. There are arguments for and against, but all in all, I use
both and find nearly identical results. I've been restoring furniture for pay for 47 years now, and I have
had occasion to refinish a piece or two the second time, after decades of service. The screws were not
rusted, and they were holding tight when I removed them — again.A well-fitted pilot hole drill is your first best thing to do. Drill the pilot hole as deep as the
Chris Marshal
in danger of smearing water-based dye if you topcoat it with a finish that contains water as its
solvent— such as water-based varnish. Water will redissolve the dye in the wood and could lead to a
mess. Once the dye is encapsulated under a seal coat as Tim discusses, any finish (even water-based)
should work fine. Or, if you don't use a sealer over the dye, pick a topcoat with a different solvent base
(shellac or oil-based varnishes are safe choices).
The Art of Classical Furnitureg, "covers all this and more." It is available from Amazon.com or autographed copieswww.historicinteriors.co.)m
Q & A
Dying and Finishing Maple Cabinets
I am about to start staining and finishing my new maple kitchen cabinets. Maple has proved
difficult to stain using everyday stains like Minwax® so, after a little research, I realized I
was going to have to use a dye stain. I have chosen to use General Finishes water-based dye
stain as it is easiest for a novice to use and penetrates the maple well. On my sample pieces,
I applied a wood conditioner and lightly sanded. I then applied the stain to the color I
wanted. I do not know what my best next step should be. Should I apply a sanding sealer,
then sand again, or is that necessary? I have also read that you cannot use sanding sealer
under a sprayed precatalyzed spray lacquer, which is what I was thinking of finishing them
with. I am concerned with brushing on a final finish because I don't know if it will cause the
water-based dye stain to bleed into the liquid brush-on finish. Will it? Also, can I just use a
water-based finish like Deft water-based wood finish instead of the spray lacquer? I just
want to be sure and get it right. Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. - Rebecca
Vosburg
Tim Inman:
and doing some testing first. Sample boards are your
friends! You will not only get a better result using them, but
you will also set yourself up to have some fun doing the real
job. Jumping in headfirst without testing or learning usually
results in headaches and disappointment for all of us.
Maple, one of the really dense woods, does indeed offer
interesting staining characteristics. Actually, some refer to it
as "blotchy" and others refer to it with more favor.
Whatever, it is natural for maple to NOT stain evenly.
I like to "sneak up" on my finishes. I think dye staining is a
great first step. However, I'd recommend you try using your
stain at about half-strength. With dyes, you can go back
later and add more to get a stronger richer color. Dyes are
not very forgiving, so test and sample before you launch.
After your dye has dried, a light sealer coat would be the
next step. I prefer what is called a "wash" of sealer. This
simply means you dilute your sealer material a lot. I often
use shellac cut to about 10 percent shellac and 90 percent
solvent (alcohol) as my sealing wash. Why? It goes on wet,
and "restores" the dry dye color. It soaks in, and it scuff
sands easily. If I want to add more color, I haven't clogged
up the wood with sealer. You could also use sanding sealer
as a wash — just dilute it with the appropriate solvent,
which is labeled on the can. Since you will be putting on
such a small amount of finish product, once it is completely dry, you should have no compatibility
issues with your chosen topcoat.
Now here's a place you might want to experiment a little more. This additional step is more work, but
the results can be fantastic. Oil stains do things to wood that water stains can't. You can have the best
of both. After scuff-sanding your dyed and wash-coat sealed wood, apply a coat of an oil-based wiping
stain. This is a stain that contains both dyes and pigments carried in a drying oil base. Your wood will
take on a rich, deep look as a result. Try this on a sample board first, but I'll bet you like the results
enough to do it on your whole project. Again, seal with a dilute wash coat. Allow it to dry completely,It is just great that you're asking questions
this step.) Complete your finish. Send us pictures!
and scuff sand for smoothness. (Nylon Scotch-Brite™ or steel wool substitute may be all you need for(Editor's Note: Tim also noted that the book he's written,
Finishin
are available directly from author Tim Inman at
l: In addition to Tim's thorough answer, I'll add only one more side note: You'll only beModifying Miter-framed Cabinet Doors
I want to put glass in my kitchen cabinet cathedral doors. I have read articles and seen
videos on how to do it. I have the skills to do so, but there is a problem. The doors have
mitered corners. On the inside of the doors, there are what appear to be metal wedges with
a tab that extends approximately 1/2" from the corners. This makes it impossible to route
the inside stiles and rails at all! I have been in contact with numerous cabinetmakers and
none of them have ever heard of these wedges being used or, for that matter, the corners
being mitered on the doors! I am in dire need of advice on how to tackle this job. If I am
lucky enough to knock out the wedges, will I stand a chance of destroying the doors beyond
being able to repair them? Is there an expert in your group who can lead me in the right
direction to follow, step by step? Need serious help! - Tony Grochowski
Tim Inman:
really nice to see. My confidence in my answer
would be much greater if I could see your doors!
But, here goes.
First, I agree that knocking apart the doors would
most likely lead to disaster. Using the procedure
I'm outlining here, I don't think it would be
necessary, either. I think you should be able to use
a router and jig to rout out the rabbet for the glass
everywhere but the last half inch or so, before you
hit that little metal devil in the miters. Then, I'd go
to hand tools. A simple little dovetail saw and a
scrap block guiding jig should let you saw one edge
of the rabbet close to the metal. A good sharp
chisel and you should be able to pare away the
remaining wood to reveal the metal part.
My secret weapon: For little trouble jobs like this, I
often find that an ordinary Dremel tool with an
abrasive cut-off saw does the trick. These little
saws "don't get no respect," as Rodney Dangerfield
used to say. My experience leaves me with a lot of respect for them. If you haven't used one, let me
describe the part. It looks like a little disc of abrasive material (sandpaper-like) about the size of a
quarter. It has a hole in the center that lets it mount to a work arbor. It is not simply sandpaper; it is a
solid carbide abrasive type material. It will cut metal easily, both ferrous and nonferrous. I think you'll
be surprised how readily this little saw will cut off the offending part. Be sure to cushion the glass when
you install it so it doesn't rub the metal edge and "Zing!" off an edge of your glass. If this answer
misses the mark for you, please email us a picture!
A picture of your problem would beChris Marshall:
the metal wedges must serve a structural purpose of some sort to keep the mitered rails and stiles
connected. I can't imagine how or why they would hold the wooden panels in place that are currently in
your doors. The metal might even be the only mechanical connection holding the frames together,
besides a glue bond. If you dive into installing that glass, pick a door you can afford to sacrifice before
removing the metal wedges. If the wedges do come out, consider reinforcing the corner joints with
some other mechanical connection (dowels or screws) just in case. The glass will add weight to the
frames and consequently more stress when you open and close them.
I'm less optimistic than Tim about this one. If your cabinet doors are factory-made,Best Lubricant for Wood Screws?
My husband and I are making windows for our cottage. We would like to know if there is a
paste or lubricant we can use for long wood screws that will allow them to thread easily and
protect them from rust? Just in case 10 years from now the window needed to be replaced,
so as not to break the screws off. - Lucinda
Tim Inman:
screw so the threads don't have to push or swell the wood as they go in deeper. Hard woods need a
larger pilot hole, softer woods get a smaller diameter fit. I find that ordinary bar soap makes a great
lube for screws. Beeswax works great, too. There are arguments for and against, but all in all, I use
both and find nearly identical results. I've been restoring furniture for pay for 47 years now, and I have
had occasion to refinish a piece or two the second time, after decades of service. The screws were not
rusted, and they were holding tight when I removed them — again.A well-fitted pilot hole drill is your first best thing to do. Drill the pilot hole as deep as the
Chris Marshal
in danger of smearing water-based dye if you topcoat it with a finish that contains water as its
solvent— such as water-based varnish. Water will redissolve the dye in the wood and could lead to a
mess. Once the dye is encapsulated under a seal coat as Tim discusses, any finish (even water-based)
should work fine. Or, if you don't use a sealer over the dye, pick a topcoat with a different solvent base
(shellac or oil-based varnishes are safe choices).
The Art of Classical Furnitureg, "covers all this and more." It is available from Amazon.com or autographed copieswww.historicinteriors.co.)m
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